village/gorge Terskol-Elbrus |
gorge Terskol |
gorge Terskol |
gorge Terskol |
CLIMBING ELBRUS THROUGH GORGE TERSKOL
The route passes along a road made in 1938. Along that road the building stuffs for the
building
"Priut 11" delivered. A place of an ending of the road was called
"Ice Base" (3800 m).
From here on ice fields of Mt.Elbrus to the building site, a four-kms sledge road was made,
having directed reliable bridges through ice cracks. Up to the launch of the
cableway "Elbrus"
it was the most popular route to "Priut 11". Now for climbing elbrus everyone use cable-ways "Elbrus" and "Gara-Bashi"
(Elbrus scheme).
Short description of the tour
Day 1. Meeting in Min Vody airport.
Transfer to Prielbrusye. Accommodation in hotel in village Terskol.
Day 2. To the Terskol gorge, direction to "Novy Krugozor" (2900m) - bivouac.
Day 3. Continue the rout to the "Ice Base" (3800 m) through meteorological station
"The 105th picket" (3300 m) - bivouac.
Day 4. Climbing to
tourist's hotel "Priut-11" (4200 m). Accommodation and lunch.
Acclimatization hike to the rocks of the "Priut-9". Return to Priut-11.
Day 5. Climbing for acclimatization to Pastukhov's rocks (4800 m). Returning to tourist's hotel "Priut-11".
Day 6. Early morning climbing to a top of
mount Elbrus. Descent to Priut-11.
Day 7. Spare day for climbing. Descent to hotel in Terskol vil.
Day 8. Departure to Min Vody.
The brief description of the tour
1st day. Arrival from Moscow (St. Petersburg, Munich etc.) to Mineralnye Vody airport. Meeting and
transfer to Prielbrusye. Accommodation in
hotel on Cheget glade, dinner.
The road from Min Vody to hotel takes about 3-4 hours.
2nd day. From village Terskol to
"Novy Krugozor" 2900m (New Outlook) -
bivouac.
The route passes along the village road branched from the Baksan highway
in the
Terskol vil. (2100 m). At first the road leaves into the glade
of the river Terskol. In 10 minutes begins a rise on a starboard of the
glade, on the slope of rather small southern spur of Elbrus. This spur,
folded with effusive rocks, parts the
glaciers Gara-Bashi and Terskol.
We climb and leave a pine forest for the herbaceous slopes above the Baksan
glade by lengthy streamers. There are the sites of picturesque
basalt
rocks above them. In 2,5 hours the road turns north, to the
transparent
multijet waterfall. It is the first spring on a whole path. From here
we mount in a hanging glade and approach to the houses of the
"New Outlook"
(2900m). Nearby the shelter there are convenient places for tents and
a clean spring. The route from Terskol will take 3 hours.
The Baksan glade, the tops of the Mt. Ushba, Mt. Donguz-Orun, Cheget and
etc. are well seen from the houses. On the opposite slope the ski lifts
and famous Cheget mountain-skiing lines are viewed. In pink rays of the
sunset the summits of the Main Caucasian Range are most effective in the
lateral (western) illumination. Furthermore if the Baksan glade is filled
with clouds, there is a unique feeling, as if you are on an abrupt coast
of the gray-haired foaming sea.
Ice Base - barrels Gara-Bashi We leave for the
"Ice Base" (3800) in the early morning. Mount to the crest
of the ridge and move along it in the direction of Mt. Elbrus. In an hour
we approach to the small lowering of the crest on which located houses
of a meteorological station. This is
"The105th picket " (3300 m).
On the approach to the meteorological station, to the right of a road
is the monument to the cavalrymen of the 214th regiment defending the
approaches to the Mt. Elbrus during the Great World War. On a broad rocky
crest the firing points, odds of the fortification and dugouts are remained.
War actions had been running here till the middle of August up to the
beginning of November of 1942. The first who had taken up a stroke of
the mountain forest men from the division "Edelweiss" exploding from the
slopes of Elbrus into the Baksan glade were the cavalrymen of the 214th
regiment. By the end of September they were replaced by the soldiers of
the 897th rifle regiment.
Above "The 105th picket" the path is choked
with rocks, covered by landslides, however it's difficult to go along
it. The glade of the Terskol river and the glacier of the same name hanging
above the glade and covered with cracks are well visible from it, as well
as a southeastern crest of Mt. Elbrus with a predominant
summit Terskol
(3787 m). We mount the top of an ancient flow. Both
summits of Mt.Elbrus
and the glacier Gara-Bashi are well visible. For 3 hours of the way from
"Novy Krugozor" we leave for
"The Ice Base" (3800m) - a flat moraine site
near upper reaches of the Terskol glacier. Here is a small house of the
tourist shelter and the constructions of the scientific station "Ice Base".
"Priut 11" is well seen from here. It's one and a half hour to reach it,
however it's dangerous to go there without special equipment and necessary
skills. Besides it needs a special permission of the Elbrus Control and
Resque Service -
bivouac.
tourist's hotel Priut-11 Leave for the base camp
"Priut-11" (4200 m).
One can go on moving only at good visibility. A gently sloping part of
the path along the glacier leads to the take-off to " Priut 11 ". There
are masked cracks, therefore it is not recommended to go aside the path.
An altitude of the Priut is 4200m.
Above the take-off opens
eastern ice fields of Mt. Elbrus. Above them
raises its eastern summit. Under the summit, on rocky exits, there was
constructed the building of
"Priut 11". To the right of it at the same
altitude are star-shaped exits of rocks of the
"Priut 9" (there are no
constructions there). Above them, on a snow slope under the summit is
"the Priut Pastukhov" (4800 m).
From "Priut 11" there are well visible ridges of the Western Caucasus.
More to the left of the ascent way on the rocks between Gara-Bashi and
Terskol glaciers seen the "Ice Base".
Having settled at "Priut 11", we can make a radial hike to the rocks of
the "Priut 9". One must take in account that on the Gara-Bashi glacier
there are a lot of cracks, the path is not marked, and under the rocks
there is a large crack -
bergshrund - masked by mild snow.
"Priut11", the highest hotel in Europe and Russia, burnt in August 1998
during the sudden night fire (nearby constructed alpinist's hut). From
here you can see the wonderful views of the mountains of the Central and
West Caucasus. The both summits of Mount Elbrus are seen on the north.
On the east, southeast and south you can see the Greater Caucasian Range
and its northern spurs. The ranges of Svanetia are seen behind the Greater
Caucasian Range, on the Southwest, behind the Hotu-Tau Range, the West
Caucasus and its ranges are seen.
5th day. Climbing for acclimatization to
Pastukhov's rocks (4800
m).
For the acclimatization effect there have to be two nights on altitude
4000m. First day climbing for acclimatization to Pastukhov's rocks (4800
m). Returning to "Priut11".
6th day. Early morning
climbing to a top of mount Elbrus.
The beginning of climb is planed in 2 a.m., in direction of the Pastukhov Rocks (4,800 m),
then to the
saddle of Elbrus, here tourists have one hour rest and go to the
Western or Eastern summit. Return in a camp "Priut-11".
7 day. Spare day for climbing. Descent to Terskol, using cable-ways "Elbrus" and "Gara-Bashi".
(Elbrus scheme).
8 day. Transfer to Min Vody airport. Departure to Moscow.
The cost of tour -
23,000 Rubles/per person, for a group from 3 persons.
The cost includes:
1. Transfer Min Vody airport - Prielbrusye - Min Vody.
2. Accommodation in private hotel in village Terskol, according the programme 2 days.
3. Accommodation in base camp "Priut 11", according the programme 3 days.
4. Three meals a day.
5. All internal transfers.
6. Cable-ways.
7. Qualified instructor for acclimatization and climbing.
8. Guides for climbing day, one guide for 3-4 persons.
9. Cook in base "Priut-11".
10. Visa support, registration in OVIR, National Park, boundary permit.
The cost doesn't include:
1. Snow-tractor.
2. Equipment.
3. Insurance.
The necessary equipment
| The personal equipment |
The group equipment |
| 1. The tourist plastic boots |
1. The first - aid set |
| 2. The ice axe or the alpenstock |
2. The electric torches |
| 3. The sleeping bag |
3. A rope |
| 4. Crampons |
4. Tents |
| 5. Tourists rug |
|
| 6. Rucksack |
|
| Summer shedule 2012 | 8 days tours | 10 days tours | 8 days tours | 10 days tours |
| June | 16.06 | 23.06 | | |
| July | 07.07 | 14.07 | 21.07 | 28.07 |
| August | 04.08 | 11.08 | 18.08 | 25.08 |
| September | 01.09 | 08.09 | | |
The costs of programmes per person in Rubles.
