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Elbrus north side |
CLIMB ELBRUS FROM NORTH SIDE - 11 days
Program Elbrus north. Climbing the eastern peak of Mount Elbrus (5621 m) towards the first ascent of the Russian expedition under the command of General of Cavalry Georgy Emanuel in 1829.
The northern slope of Elbrus has been always attracting the attention of scientists, mountaineers, climbers and resort visitors. Just there the first conquerors of Elbrus, the participants of the famous Emmanuel expedition, made their attempt to conquer Caucasian giant.
The program is designed for 11 days, one day spare in case of bad weather or extra acclimatization. Time of way up orientate and may change, depending on the specific conditions that day.
The given program is for tourists, who want to walk in mountains with tents, to feel the real mountaineering. The tour allows to see the most beautiful place of Kabardino-Balkaria - north side of Elbrus with springs Gili-su.
Short description of the tour
Day 1. Meeting in airport Minvody/Nalchik. Transfer to city Nalchik. Hotel accommodation.
Day 2. Transfer from Nalchik to the North Elbrus. Base camp in a glade Emanuel (2598 m) - bivouac.
Day 3. Acclimatization to the summit camp 3800 m. Return to camp Emanuel.
Day 4. Ascent to the summit camp (3800 m) - bivouac.
Day 5. Acclimatization to the rocks Lenz (4600 m). Return to summit camp.
Day 6. Day stay.
Day 7. Ascent on eastern or western top of Elbrus, return to summit camp.
Day 8. Reserve day or descent down.
Day 9. Descent to base camp to glade Emanuel.
Day 10. Transfer to Nalchik. Holel accomodation.
Day 11. Transfer to Min Vody. Departure to Moscow..
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North Elbrus climb |
The brief description of the tour
1st day. Meeting in airport Minvody. Transfer to city Nalchik. The road from Min Vody to Nalchik takes about one and half hour. Hotel accommodation 3* in park area. Preparation of equipment, leaving unnecessary stuff in office, registrational copies. Evening excursion around
the city. Dinner in the park.
Resort Nalchik |
Resort Nalchik |
Resort Nalchik |
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2nd day. Early breakfast. At 8-30 a.m. transfer to North side of mount Elbrus through village Malka till Jili-su glade. Time of transfer by minivan from Nalchik till Elbrus north takes about 4-5 hours depending from road condition and weather.
Base camp in a glade Emanuel (2598 m) - bivouac.
road to Elbrus north |
road to Elbrus north |
road to Elbrus north |
The road to Elbrus North is one of the most difficult and exhausting. To be more exact there was no road at all up to 1980-s. Now there are two roads leading there from two different sides of Malka canyon but they still remain tiresome.
After about 40 km of federal road from Nalchik in the diraction to Min Vody we turn from the main road in village Malka to canyon Malka. The comfortable road goes again about 40 km up till village Kichmalka in a good condition. From here starts the difficult path till north base camp of Elbrus.
Following the stream of the river Kharbaz, we reach the river Khasaut and the tourist camp "Valley of Narzan" reminding of an old castle by its form. It is not lived in now. There are 14 natural mineral springs here: each has its own specific qualities which are superb. From here we drive 10 km more till the base camp.
On the way after the Valley of Narzan there is the place we can see one more wonder of Elbrus Country - megaliths. There are several megaliths. Most of them are about three meters high. Its upper part is made like the warrior's head in helmet. Megaliths is one of the most puzzling mysteries here.
You can get a lot of very interesting information about European megaliths in the WEB but not about Caucasian ones. Judging by the peculiarities of graving we can detect here the traditions of fore-Asiatic and Cimmerian art. This monument - if to judge by the features - may be referred to Scythians. As for the helmet it is the so called Assyrian type. It means that the monument goes back to the beginning of the 7th century BC.
There are megaliths in other parts of Kabardino-Balkaria, too. For example, one megalith of improbable size was found in the canyon Tuuz-Sirt, to the south-east from village Nizny Chegem. Another one is a graven image of some ancient deity or animal made from the whole block of granite.
camp "Valley of Narzan" |
megaliths |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
Approaching Gili-Su (2380 m) through the plateau with the watershed of the rivers Ingushly and Malka - you'll get a marvelous view: Rocky Range with two beautiful summits of Western and Eastern Kandjol.
Nowadays it is generally accepted that the formation of Elbrus volcano and its activity began about 4 million years ago and was over about 4,5 -5 thousand years ago. Elbrus is an inactive volcano but some volcanic processes are still going on that can be detected by the temperature of water from the mineral springs (up to 24 grades C). Gili-Su springs are among them.
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
Gili-Su is a combination of numerous wonderful phenomena among which mineral springs giving power, energy, health; surprising ancient burials; mysterious megaliths; lakes on the mountain slopes; grand waterfalls; amazing views and a lot of other things. There is even something dealing with the riddles of the recent history: top secret aerodrome of the 2-nd World War..
We may say that Gili-Su is first of all is the creation of Elbrus as it is situated on its northern slope and is inspired by its might.
Only three mineral springs were known up to 1909. Afterwards a powerful landslide closed their outlets. One of the springs disappeared at all as Malka made there its bed. Nowadays we know about several mineral springs in different parts of Gili-Su. One of them is warm (22,4C). It makes a reservoir with a brook going out of it. Two springs - 120 meters below Gili-Su - are on the banks of Sultan-Gara-Su river. They are often called Misost-narzan after the name of the man who showed the springs to the researchers. The last one - 3,5 km further from the main spring - somewhere below the mouth of Kara-Kaya-Su river.
river Malka |
river Malka |
river Malka |
way to north Elbrus |
way to north Elbrus |
Gili-su springs |
Just near the springs there is a grand waterfall Sultan - an amazing natural monument (35-40 meters high). River Kizil-kol precipitates down from a great height joining the water of river Birghanli-Su at the outlet of the warm mineral springs. A bit further there is one more waterfall - impetuous current falling into the narrow canyon from the height of 27 meters.
waterfall Sultan |
waterfall Sultan |
waterfall Sultan |
waterfall |
waterfall Sultan |
waterfall Sultan |
sand castles |
One more surprising masterpiece of nature is just behind the waterfall Sultan. It is a stone bridge across the river. Standing on it you experience different - from awe to rapture - feelings caused by a ferocious, wild power of the stream below.
Here is an extract from the book of 1913 by a famous traveler S.Anisimov: "One of the biggest glaciers of Elbrus Ullu-Chiran has one of the most original bridges in the world: it is a huge fallen fragment of rock which narrowed the flow of river Malka turning it into a passage. Malka rages and roars under the bridge but all around there are plenty of blue, white, violet alpine flowers. The stream of Malka, tearing out from volcanic rocks at the height of 40 meters, falls down becoming a striking waterfall with clouds of rainbow-like splashes" (Anisimov A. Kabardino-Balkaria. M., 1937).
sand castles |
sand castles |
sand castles |
Above the springs an astonishing prospect at the valley of Malka river.
valley of Malka river |
valley of Malka river |
valley of Malka river |
It's nice to make a camping near the Dgilisu springs. Near the narzan bathes two rivers - Birdgalisu and Kyzyl-Su that are the sources of the river Malka flow together. We cross over the bridge to the left bank and go along the good path to the mouth step of the high-mountain valley of the Kyzyl-Su River (40 minutes). From here you can see the legendary Elbrus. The mountains around Elbrus seem the hills from here. The Elbrus Slopes are the sources of the rivers of the Malka basin. The square of the contemporary Elbrus glaciers is more than 135 square kilometers.
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
crossing to base camp |
crossing to base camp |
silver spring |
Further on there is the most highland (2598 m above sea) plateau Irakhin-sirt. It is the place where in 1829 the above mentioned expedition of Georgy Emmanuel (the hero general of the Patriotic War of 1812) pitched the camp. The purpose of the expedition was to "obtain a true information about this country: its mountains, valleys, canyons, woods, pastures, mineral springs and other phenomena of nature..."
Emanuel glade |
Emanuel glade |
Emanuel glade |
crossing to base camp |
crossing to base camp |
to base camp |
The personnel of the expedition was 350 Cossacks, 650 soldiers, 2 cannons, 6 camels with Kalmuck drivers and two native guides - Islam Krimshaukhal and Mirza-kul Urusby. The general Emmanuel invited some scientists from The Russian Imperial Academy, the architect Bernardacci and Hungarian traveler Besh (Bess'e) to take part in the researches.
As Yanosh Besh put it down, "the expedition is a symbol of unity of the aim notwithstanding the variety of people and sciences. 9 nations from Europe and Asia take part in this undertaking. We are the first to look at Elbrus".
The path leads to the summer farmyard situated near the Emmanuel's Rock, on which you can see the inscription in the memory of the first Elbrus ascent: "From 8 to 11 of July in 1829 the general of cavalry Emanuel had been camping here". This inscription was discovered by chance in 103 years after by the expedition as the layer of lichens covered it.
Here we make our camping.
base camp |
base camp |
base camp |
Emanuel glade |
Emanuel glade |
Emanuel glade |
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3rd day. Acclimatization to the summit camp at moraine 3800 m, getting to a campsite some of equipment, food stuff. Descent to camp in a glade Emanuel (2600 m).
Summit camp |
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4th day. Ascent to the summit camp (3800 m) - bivouac.
After the small ascent the path crosses the plateau from east to west. This alpine grassland is a good pasture. From here you can see the northern Elbrus glaciers: Ullu-Malgan-Chyran, Ullu-Kol, Kara-Chaul. At the right there is (in front of Elbrus) the meridianal range - Tashly-Syrt.
way to summit camp |
way to summit camp |
way to summit camp |
After 2 hours walking you can see all the northern spurs of Elbrus coming to the Tashly-Syrt Range. In its upper part above the Ullu-Chiran Glacier, which is the source of Kyzyl-Su River, is located the Balk -Bashi Pass. In this spur but more lower directly from the motion direction is located the simple Buran-Tash Pass (3086 meters). Across this pass the way leads to the Hydes valley. The river Hydes is the right tributary of the Cuban River. This ancient path leading to the aul Hurzuk has the name Sut-Dgol, which means "the milk road".
higher of aerodrome |
The next point of interest is a top secret aerodrome which the native shepherds call "German" (2900 m). It is absolutely plain ground as if made by nature for some mysterious projects. It is 3 or 4 hundred meters wide and over 1 kilometer long. Being there, at the foot of Elbrus, you are rooted to the spot being stricken by the grandeur of the view: Elbrus summits are unbelievably near; fantastic piling of lava in front of them is like intricately deft work of some Hercules; the endless field stretches up to the steep ridge with the "Glade of mushrooms".
"German" aerodrome |
The interest of Adolph Hitler to Tibet is widely known as well as his great interest to Elbrus. Exposed to mysticism, Hitler was simply possessed by Elbrus - the sacred mountain of Aryans. Here is an extract from the book by L.Peauvel and J.Bergier: "When ... German troops invaded Caucasus a strange ceremony took place. Three SS mountain climbers ascended Elbrus - the sacred Aryan mountain, the cradle of ancient civilizations, the magic top of the "Lucifer's Friends" sect. They erected there the banner with swastika... It should have marked the beginning of new era. From that time the seasons should have obeyed the conquerors and fire must have won ice" (Peauvel L, Bergier J. The Morning of Magus: the Power of magic cults in Nazi Germany. M., 1992. P.46).
Numerous stories about German aerodrome, about enigmatic passengers brought to the foot of Elbrus, of their meditation, prophecy and following death are often among the natives, tourists and mountain climbers. Is it really an aerodrome is an arguable question. But sometimes imagination and rumors are better arguments. More than that. There is a lot of "data" about UFO watched over this place. You can get the information about it in the WEB. But according to the natives there are still plenty of places in Gili-Su inaccessible to man. And they still keep their secrets.
way to summit camp |
way to summit camp |
way to summit camp |
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5th day. At about 8-00 a.m. acclimatization to the rocks Lenz (4600 m). Return to summit camp.
Elbrus ascent steps |
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6th day. Day stay, ice training on techniques of movement on the ice, viewing the neighborhoods of camp.
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7th day. Early morning climbing to the top of mount Elbrus.
The beginning of climb is planed at 3-00 a.m., in direction of Lenz Rocks (4600 m), then to the saddle of Elbrus, here climbers have one hour rest and go to the Western top. Return to summit camp.
Elbrus north-east |
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8th day. Spare day for climbing. Or descent down to base camp.
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9th day. At 9-00 a.m. descend to base camp in a glade Emanuel, on the way back visiting of "stone mushrooms". After lunch, walk to Dzhilysu thermal sources.
Among wonders of the northern slope of Elbrus there is the so called "glade of mushrooms". But these are the mushrooms of stone. They look as if someone mighty, idling the time away, put a kind of caps accurately on the stone stems. Such stone mushrooms can be also seen on the right bank of Gara-
Auzu-Su river. They are sometimes 5 meters high.
Elbrus north |
stone mushrooms |
stone mushrooms |
The Dgilisu valley ("Warm Waters") is known as a public balneological health resort. Long since the mountaineers knew about the medicinal properties of these mineral springs and used them. Now the Dgilisu springs are two thick springs with pools for the bathing with the constant temperature of water 22.4 degrees above zero. In spite of ways difficulties, high altitude (2,380 meters) nearness of Elbrus glaciers and the primitive state of life and treatment the resort visitors always get easing here.
A healing, curative power of Gili-Su springs seems unbelievable: their water cleanses the organism from slags; induce inner energy; rise life tone; improve general state; make your sight sharper. Gili-Su is not only mineral healing springs but a wonderful microclimate as well. It is a kind of natural inhaler. Air there is absolutely pure. You can't but enjoy it.
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
Gili-Su springs |
But the main wonder of this place is, of course, Elbrus. It is beyond comparisons, above understanding. Matchless. Elbrus is tender pink at dawn, dazzling white - at noon, bluish black - at midnight. Ancient and newly-born, constant and changing, calm and challenging...
One of its "minor" wonders is Gili-Su - a masterpiece of nature. We can't help admiring it. We can not even enumerate all its peculiarities. Here are only some of them: lava dike in the valley of river Karakaya-Su; the moraine glacier deposits; 20 meters high ice wall on the tongue of the glacier Ullumalienderku; ice plateau with the peak of Kalitsky; the glacier Mikelchiran going down right into the lake...
We can only mention here some ancient inscriptions on the rocks of the northern slopes of Elbrus accessed to the people of those days; of the caves containing family burials; of some burials where remarkable skulls - "unusually long, with big foreheads" - were found. By the way, there are only three places in the world with the finds alike: they are in Peru, Egypt and Siberia.
Gili-Su may be really called a splendid mystery itself.
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10th day. Transfer to Nalchik. Holel accomodation. On this day we can visit hot springs near Nalchik or further to canyon till "Blue Lakes".
Blue lakes |
Blue lakes |
Blue lakes |
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11th day. Transfer to Min Vody. Departure to Moscow..
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The cost of tour - 950.00 EURO/per person (nine hundred fifty Euro) for a group from 4 persons.
The cost includes:
1. All transfers: from Min Vody airport to hotel and back to airport; from hotel to north side of Elbrus and back to hotel.
2. Accommodation in 3* hotel in city Nalchik, according the programme 2 days including breakfast.
3. Campsite huts, tents according the programme.
4. All meals: cooked meal everyday during acclimatization with packed lunches.
5. Qualified guide-instructor for acclimatization and climbing.
6. Guides for climbing day, one guide for 3-4 persons.
7. Cook in base-camp with all kitchen stuff.
8. Visa support, registration in FMS.
The cost doesn't include:
1. Personal equipment.
2. Insurance.
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The necessary equipment
| The personal equipment |
The group equipment |
| 1. The tourist plastic boots |
1. The first - aid set |
| 2. The ice axe or the alpenstock |
2. The electric torches |
| 3. The sleeping bag |
3. A rope |
| 4. Crampons |
4. Tents |
| 5. Tourists rug |
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| 6. Rucksack |
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Popular excursions in republic Kabardino-Balkaria
Kabardino-Balkaria is called the pearl of the Caucasus. There is no exaggeration at all. More then that. Everybody who knows our republic not at random, occasionally but directly, even intimately, i.e. through its canyons, mountains, rivers, the highest in Europe peaks, waterfalls, alpine meadows, lakes, fresh mountainous air and its sky, will agree that it is a world masterpiece.
Perhaps, its not correct to compare and rank speaking about Earth landscape creations because every place is a kind of Gods grace. But there is no place like home. And when this home is Kabardino-Balkaria you dont compare and rank: you are simply delighted.
Let us make a short introduction before strating. Kabadino-Balkaria is situated in the central part of the Great Caucasus and adjoining plain called Kabardinian plain. Its area is 12 470 sq. km. It borders on Alania in the East, Karachay-Cherkess Republic in the West, Stavropol land in the North and Georgia in the South. The last mentioned is at the same time the state frontier of Russia. Kabardino-Balkaria stretches from east to west for 160 km and from north to east for 110 km.
Six highest (above 5000 m) Caucasian peaks from the seven (except Kazbek) are in Kabardino-Balkaria. They are: Elbrus (5642,7 and 5621), Dich-Tau (5204), Koshtan-Tau (5152), Shkhara (5068), Djangi-Tau (5058), Pushkin Peak (5033 meters high correspondingly).
Mountains occupy more than 60 percent of the republics territory forming five parallel ranges: Woody, Pasturable, Rocky, Lateral, Main. These ranges, except Main, are cut by seven canyons with the rivers Malka, Baksan, Chegem, Chereck, Psigansu, Lesken with the water from the mountains of the Main and Lateral canyons. These rivers flow into Caspian Sea.
Rocky, Main and Lateral ranges are considered to be the most picturesque with their cliffs of yellow-pink shades, turbulent rivers, chains of white tops with never melting snow. And of course, we should mention Elbrus the marvelous giant with its two summits, the highest mountain in Europe. It is really beyond any comparison. It is even above imagination.
So we begin our journey Enjoy it! You are welcome!
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Mount Elbrus
Climbing Elbrus south side
Elbrus North tour-11 days
About Prielbrusye
Prielbrusye map and hiking tours
Summer tours:
Fast climb - 8 days
Elbrus&Adyl-su gorge
Elbrus&Irik-chat gorge
Elbrus climb through gorge Terskol
Winter tours:
Elbrus ski-tour - 8 days
Skitouring in Elbrus region
Elbrus ski-tour&mt. Kogutai
Elbrus ski-tour&gorge Azau
Bezengi gorge
tourist camp Bezengi
Bezengi wall
North massif
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2011-11-22 10:51:58
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Lyana
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nalchik.ru/webcam/krugozor
webcam on second lift on Elbrus
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2011-11-22 10:01:17
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Lyana
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www.nalchik.ru/webcam/azau Here is Azau glade online. Its one working yet. Others will also work soon.
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2011-11-19 19:58:04
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Неизвестный
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Hi Lyana. Last year you had a link to some webcam, have they been dismounted??
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2011-09-04 14:27:52
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manuel
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I am interested in climbing Mount Elbrus in August 2011 and would like to contact people who have climbed Mount Elbrus to tell me about your experience, and people intending to climb it for next year, thanks (leunam1310@hotmail.com)
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2010-06-21 13:20:49
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Angel del Pozo
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Hi there, I am goint to the hotel on 6 or 7 july. And I need for my visa in Spain one letter from you with an invitation. It is really urgent
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